Costa Rica - Bribri Tribe

While in Costa Rica, I really wanted to understand the people and it's culture.  The only local tour owner/operator, Jorge (who knew the owner of the Casa we were staying in), helped book us a trip to eat lunch and make chocolate with an indigenous family.   

Bridge to Bribri

Jorge picked us up in a Jeep at our Casa and drove us to the land owned by The Bribri Tribe.  The tribe is located in the same territory of Cahuita, less than 40 minutes south.  The mountains and greenery along the drive were so lush and unlike anything I have seen.  The mountains were actually the border of Panama & Costa Rica.   We arrived at the Bribri family home after driving down a long rocky road, walking across a suspension bridge and passing thru the grass where chickens scurried by.  We could smell open fire and knew we were there.  This family is home to 6 generations; the oldest man being 108 years old and the youngest being 2 years old.  We were greeted by a woman who was cooking lunch, accompanied by her husband and their son, Jefferson.  

Jefferson is hiding

The husband spoke English and taught us about the way they cook, what they eat, how they build their pre-Colombian homes, and their use for organic medicinal items gathered from their land.   After some conversation, we were served a meal prepared with fresh produce and chicken from their land, served in a creatively folded banana leaf bowl.  In our lunch bowl were 4 different types of potatoes, from tart to super sweet – and from dry to creamy.  It was so impressive to see how they prepared simple food, using only fire and food from their land.  

Plantain, Potatoes & Chicken lunch

After eating lunch, we learned about chocolate (cacao) making.  The Bribri tribe is made up of clans; a child's clan is determined by the clan his or her mother belongs to (matrilineal).  This gives women an important role in Bribri society, they are the only ones who can inherent land or prepare the sacred Cacao.  Jerry was able to participate, but you would never see a Bribri man preparing cacao...only eating it! 

Cacao Beans off the plant....we sampled the fruit

Anna roasting cacoa beans

Using two rocks to make beans into a paste

We got to try our hand at making chocolate

The finished product - all varieties; ginger, milk, orange & coconut were our favs!

Jefferson warmed up to me enough to take a photo

After spending the afternoon with the family we headed out to swim in a waterfall that is on the Bribri Tribe's land.  It was the perfect outing for us and an afternoon well spent in CR!

Costa Rica - Cahuita National Park

The jungle is most active in morning, so we ventured out to Cahuita National Park to see what nature had to offer.  The entrance of the park was 1/2 mile walk from our Casa, then a 2 mile walk to the end of the park.  As we entered the park we walked along a dirt path thru the jungle that meandered along the Caribbean Coast.  The monkeys were howling and swinging from the trees.  Huge blue butterflies adorned us along the walk, which is told to be good luck.  Blue crabs scattered into their holes as we walked along.  The amount of nature around us was amazing!

We planned to snorkel at the end of the park near a reef.  But, it's against the law to snorkel without a guide.  The reef and habitat are highly protected - you could illegally snorkel without a guide, but it's not highly recommended.  We thought we would try our luck, until we saw a park ranger.  He noticed our swim fins hanging out of our back pack and asked if we were going to snorkel.  We told him that we wouldn't be going unless we found a guide (local boys hanging out for work).  It was all to odd and different from snorkeling in Hawaii, where you jump in wherever you like.  We decided just to swim instead.   Back toward the middle of the park, we found a beautiful lagoon to swim and eat some sandwiches that we brought for lunch.  Soon after we settled, dropped our backpack and entered the ocean, a daring little monkey attempted to rob us of our lunch!  I tried to capture the monkey on video, but he was fast!  Below is a video of the monkey in the trees, and a view of where we settled for lunch and swimming. 

Cahuita National Park

Picture Perfect Palm Trees

Our lunch bench

Costa Rica - Exploring Cahuita

Waking up in the middle of a wild jungle is amazing!  When we woke at 6am, the birds were singing and the monkeys were howling.  We sat on the porch listening to nature while enjoying abnormally strong coffee.  With the beautiful morning in hand, we decided to walk about 1/2 mile to the farmer's market to pick up some food for the week.  The roads in Cahuita are dirt and gravel.  There are few cars, a handful of motorcycles and bicycles, but most people get around by walking.  We met a lot of people as we walked.  Everyone was friendly.  Even the town hobos were friendly, but we had to be cautious.  We walked by an American woman that told us if we were headed to the farmer's market, we should try the queso (cheese).  She said her children like it fried as she pointed to a little Asian boy, he confirmed that it is delicious.  We found the market to be busy, very small, but plentiful.  There were two produce vendors, one cheese vendor and a tamale maker.  We were able to purchase queso, 4 brown eggs, carrots, potatoes, pineapple, strawberries, green beans, red peppers, cilantro, ginger and a porcupine looking fruit...all for about $10.

Red spiky (rambutan) fruit

With the produce in hand we decided to go see the butcher for meat.  However, the directions we received took us to a place that did not look to be a butcher shop.  We turned back towards home and stopped at a supermarket.  The term "supermarket" is deceiving in Costa Rica.  It's basically a convenient store, like 7-11.  This is where people go to get the sugary snacks and small American conveniences, not food of substance.  We were able to buy water, juice, rice, seasonings and beer.  Walking around town did limit the amount of water and heavy items that we could carry back home. I love this way of life.  It reminded me a bit of Amsterdam or Germany where you would walk daily to the market for the freshest, nutrient rich foods, all grown locally.  You can't weigh yourself down with too much junk!

As we were walking back to the Casa, we passed the American lady with her son.  The little boy was wearing a cowboy hat, cowboy shoes and was carrying a guitar.  He was 4 years old and stood maybe 3 feet tall.  He was adorable!  In our conversation, we learned that the boy was adopted from Laos 2 years ago and was awaiting Costa Rica citizenship before he was able to be fully adopted by this American family.  The father of the family had returned to their home in Ohio with the little boy's biological brother, who had already completed the adoption process.  We learned that Laos children cannot be directly adopted into the USA.  Laos is considered high risk and has no regulation on child trafficking.  This little boy loved Costa Rica and playing his guitar in the church (which is where they were headed).  But, he could not wait to get to Ohio!  He had heard so many good things about America from his brother, including Donald Duck living there, that he starting dancing at the mention of going to his final home, which was to happen within six months.  This family had a nice house across from the beach, lots of fruit trees and vegetation on their land....to us this was a spectacular life!  But to think that this little boy had limited opportunities in CR and would be able to have so many more opportunities in America made us so excited for his life.   I couldn't stop thinking about this little cutie and what a great deed the American couple did for these boys. 

Jerry along the Caribbean Coast

After getting the food put away at the Casa, we were in need of a dip in the water.  The ocean was perfect temperature again and we basically had the beach to ourselves, except for the random dogs that would sprawl out on the wet sand.  After a swim, we walked to the Regaee Bar for lunch.  Jerry found his favorite meal, rice with seafood.  It was a lot of food for only $5 and tasted delicious!  I also loved my dish, garlic chicken.  We ended up eating this meal 2 times during our stay.  While having a cigarette after lunch, we met a young man from Israel who had moved to CR.  We ended up talking to him for over an hour about politics and life.  It's so stimulating to learn about others way of life and the ideas that have formed them into who they are.  After bidding farewell to our compadre, we went for another swim before the sun set.  Day 2 was a great day of exploring and meeting people in Cahuita.  My sociological muscle had been exercised and I loved it!

Costa Rica Bound

We have been yearning for a tropical vacation!  I checked airfare to several beach locations before finding good rates to Costa Rica.  We booked it immediately.   After doing a bit of research, we found that Costa Rica weather in September is very rainy. It's their winter season….but we were in luck!  The Caribbean coast of CR usually has their best weather in September – we focused our itinerary on the east coast as opposed to the Pacific coast, and are sure glad we did! 

The flight was a little over 5 hours.  We took the red eye, left LAX at 11pm and arrived in San Jose at 6am (1hr ahead of CA).  Our intention was to sleep on the plane, but we only got little cat naps in.  After landing, clearing customs & exchanging money we took a taxi about 2 miles away to catch a shuttle to Cahuita, the town we were staying in.  The taxi ride cost 1100 colones (approx. $2.20).  We had a brain lapse, reading the meter as $11.00 - so our driver got almost a $9 tip...no wonder he was so accommodating! 

While exchanging money at the San Jose airport, a couple was in line behind us to exchange as well.  We had made small chat with this couple at the LAX ticket counter and saw them on our flight.  We made small chat again in the exchange line, asking them about the airport exchange rate before wishing them a fun trip.  We had to laugh when we saw the same couple (now for the 4^th time) at our shuttle meeting point, 2 miles from the airport, also waiting for their shuttle - turned out we caravanning together!  We picked up 3 other people in the shuttle, a total of 7 traveled the 4 hour ride to the Caribbean Coast.  It was a great shuttle ride! One of the passengers, Susie, was heading home to Puerto Nuevo after spending time with her brother in San Jose.  She shared a lot about the country and her experience moving to the Caribbean from Boston.  The couple that we kept bumping into, Jay & Miranda, were on their honeymoon.  Jay had lived in Costa Rica 8 years prior and was there to show Miranda around.  He also had a lot of good advice about the country and town we were visiting.  The other couple on our shuttle, Rodom & Shifra, were from Israel and had been touring the country for almost 3 weeks! (also on their honeymoon).  Everyone was so excited to be on the trip and bonded by the common interest in pure adventure.  The shuttle ride was such a great way to start the trip, met some really cool people, and didn't think once about how tired our bodies were.  We were the first to be dropped off by the shuttle.  We took photos and gave hugs to our newfound Costa Rica friends before wishing them well on their adventures.

Myself, Jerry, Susie, Jay, Miranda, Guillermo (driver), Rodom & Shifra

Our house host, Fionna, was at the house to greet us and walk us thru.  We had seen pictures of the house (Casa Verde), but it was even more charming in person!  After unpacking our bags, quick shower and lather in bug spray, we headed to town for a bite to eat.  The town is a 5-7 minute walk down a dirt road, separated by the ocean and the jungle.  We saw quite a few stray dogs on our way - Fionna advised us not to feed them or attract them - they will not leave you alone if you do. 

Coco's Bar

We decided to eat at Coco's Bar.  An indoor/outdoor restaurant that served classic drinks and Caribbean food.  We ordered fried plantains, shrimp cocktail...and a drink that became my favorite, Caiprinha (similar to a mojito).  As we enjoyed our drinks and view, we were surprised to see our new friends Jay & Miranda walking toward us! They thought their hotel was miles away from Cahuita...turned out that they were staying 2 blocks away from us!   We laughed at how many times we kept crossing paths.  They joined us for food and drinks before bidding farewell again.  We knew we would see them around the town. Cahuita is very small!

Playa Negra

After lunch, we walked to the beach in front of our casa to explore.  The water temperature was so warm...yet felt very refreshing in the hot humid weather.  Jerry & I were having a hard time acclimating to the weather.  The first day we took 3 showers and changed clothes 3 times! Needless to say the water was calling our name.  Problem was that I did not have my bathing suit on and wanted to jump right into the ocean.  Problem resolved quickly.  I yanked off my dress, covered my breast and walked right into the water....so freeing!  We were the only people on the beach.  Even if someone walked by, they wouldn't be concerned as Cahuita was a free spirit kind of town.  We swan and frolicked in the water until the sun set at 5:45pm.  This is what a tropical vacation is about!  When the sun sets, the bugs and jungle come alive!  We had to get back to the casa to get more bug spray on and get ready for dinner.

 We enjoyed dinner at Sobre Las Olas, a restaurant that was recommended several times by locals.  The restaurant sits on the ocean, is lit by candle light and serves amazing seafood.  Very romantic.  So romantic, that I wasn't surprised when our friends Jay & Miranda showed up for dinner!!  We ran into them so many times, it started to seem like we were stalking them!  We initially planned to go out for dinks after dinner, but bowed out since we were all so tired...plus I thought the newlyweds needed their alone time.  After all they were on their honeymoon!  And us. Tired!  The first day in Costa Rica was exactly the type of reaxing, romantic trip we were yearning for! 

Photo's of the house we rented, Casa Verde.

Front of the house we rented

Watch this youtube video posted by previous tenant, filmed from Casa Verde to town. This is where we spent our week!!